For What's It Worth - Price Guide
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Canadian Mercury
Pickups 1946-1968
This site is about the Mercury trucks that were
built in Canada between 1946 & 1968 by the Ford Motor Company of Canada,
Limited.
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For What's It WorthNOTE: A heap of credit and thanks goes to Steve of mustangdreams.com for letting me use some of the information here. |
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Fair market value has been defined as:
"That price, at which a seller is willing to sell
and a buyer is willing to buy, both parties being knowledgeable about the
property, and neither party being under any time pressure to act."
Because buyers and sellers each have different motivations for their
actions, however, prices paid and accepted for property can and do vary
dramatically from the so-called norm of "fair
market value." While a theoretical
"fair market value" exists for all properties, real life
dictates that there will be many deviations from the price level.
Although people specifically ask for "the value" of an item, used items, antiques, and collectibles do not have fixed values. "An item is worth what someone is willing to pay for it at the time, under the specific circumstances". Value is determined by market forces. Price guides to antiques record what items have sold for in the past and thus serve as rough guides to present value. An appraiser estimates the current market value of an item based on examination of the item, knowledge of the market, experience, and records of past sales of similar items. Buying a Vintage Mercury Truck:The early Mercury trucks are a good choice for a first collector truck. There are many informal car shows across the U.S. and Canada where you can "show and swap", and get advice from other enthusiasts. The trucks are relatively easy to drive and maintain. Certainly as a 30 - 60 year old truck there will always be the unexpected, but generally speaking a #3 condition truck or better should not present major problems. Ford used the same engine (block) and other components from the truck for many years in different models of trucks and cars. In some cases parts will be more reasonably priced than comparable parts for a modern truck. Other than major overhauls (i.e. engine or transmission) many repairs are easy to do, there is a lot of room to work under the hood, and a good shop will charge accordingly. When considering a prospect, the buyer should be wary of these items: 1. Originality... has the truck been unprofessionally modified in such a way that adversely effects handling or performance? Is the interior in good original condition, or has it been restored as original? Are aftermarket items added to the truck period correct? Have holes been cut in the dash for after market sound equipment? 2. Mechanical Condition... are all major components i.e. engine, transmission, drive-train, front end, brakes serviceable? A truck with components in need of work would not automatically disqualify it, but cost of repairs should be factored in to negotiated selling price. 3. Bodywork and Rust... has the truck been in a severe accident to the point where major body components such as frame and undercarriage have been straightened or incorrectly repaired? What is the condition of door panels, fenders, quarter panels, hood, emblems etc.? While these are 35+ year old trucks, and some amount of rust or body repair can be anticipated, stay away from trucks that have had extensive, poorly done repairs or are total rust buckets! Also be aware that some Ford trucks have been rebadged as Mercury's, check the VIN number. From 1946 to 1966 you can tell by the VIN code, 1967 and 1968 models are the hardest to tell if they are rebadged. Trucks that have spent their lives in dry climates such as the American Southwest are often found as original examples with little rust. Important Terms: Original ... the very same part i.e. engine block, fender , paint , seat fabric that came from the factory in the year the truck was made, un-repaired or refinished in its lifetime. If the part has been repaired and/or refinished (painted or chromed) and the work was done as to duplicate the look, size, color, and operation of the factory made part it is "restored as original". Restored... you will often hear someone point to a classic truck and ask with enthusiasm "is it restored?" Strictly speaking, a restored truck is a perfect #1 condition show truck. Every part on the truck has been replaced with a freshly manufactured aftermarket part (or NOS, new old stock, part) or the component refinished (painted or chromed) and/or professionally repaired to factory new tolerances, or the truck has been sitting in the twilight zone. Most #2 and #3 condition trucks are a combination of restored as original and good, presentable, operable original components. Show truck or show quality... strictly speaking, a national class "concourse" show truck is a #1 or strong #2 condition truck with every part excellent original or restored as original, i.e. down to the factory decal that tells you how to operate the jack. These trucks compete with other trucks of the same model and are rarely driven. After being on the road for more than a short distance, they are professionally cleaned inside and out, and put back into storage. Informal... "show trucks" are very presentable with few obvious flaws to the casual observer. The trucks are driven on a regular basis. They might have wear comparable to what you would find on a 6 year old "new" truck, i.e. small parking lot door dings, carpet showing some wear or soil, etc. They might compete in informal local shows and judged alongside a variety of other makes and models. These are #2 to #3 condition trucks.
(Please note: the price guides do not have Mercury Trucks listed. You could look up Ford trucks and add a 10 to 20 percentage to to what the guide has, for the Mercury.) Why is the asking or selling price so much higher than the Value Guides? 1. AUCTION PRICE: Auctions are, to get two determined and flush bidders wanting the same truck. The results can be way over the auction house or value guide estimates. 2. ASKING PRICES: Especially from dealers will usually be higher. Asking prices are not selling prices. Hemmings and the local paper are full of ads that sometimes run for months, with hopelessly optimistic asking prices. Many of these high prices are based on what the person has "invested" in the truck and its restoration. These costs have little bearing on market value. 3. ORIGINALITY: Completely original and well-documented trucks have sometimes found a market well above predicted values. 4. MILEAGE: For Collector trucks is not very important. Condition is the over riding determinant of value. Mileage may be part of evaluating condition, as for example, a documented low mileage original truck. But many collector trucks have been restored in the past and in many instances the odometers are set back to zero after a "Body-Off" complete nut and bolt restoration. In many cases it is impossible to get documentation of mileage, and true mileage is unknown. Collector Truck Condition Guide:CONDITION: The most important determinate of value is condition. Every truck must be placed in the right condition category. The most common problem is placing a truck in the next highest category. To a non-marque expert, an excellent truck can easily be mistaken for a show truck. The difference is in subtle and expensive details of originality. Both may have the same level of attractiveness to the untrained eye. Similarly the vast majority of trucks at shows are "good" but from 20 feet away can easily be mis-classified as excellent. Be sure the vehicle is properly matched with the price levels as described.
PARTS TRUCKS: Incomplete, non-running, or "parts trucks" are valued based on the worth of the parts, these are sometimes classified as #6. On the standard numerical grading system, Show = 1, Excellent = 2, Good = 3, and Fair = 4
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Last modified: 02/11/10 |